Get a lamp color between 4000K and 6500K and the plants will do just fine,
and will be well within their zone of photoreactivity to outcompete the
algaes.
There's nothing to analyze there!
How much carbon and micronutrients you have to provide to meet the uptake
depends on the amount of PAR (Photosynthetically Available Radiation) you
are providing. This is a measure of intensity.
If you have more PAR than available carbon and micronutrients, you will open
the door for algae to participate, regardless of what lamp color you have.
If you have less PAR than available carbon and micronutrients, uptake may
not be fast enough due to an "energy input" deficincy to use the phosphates
and nitrates our aquariums produce, and you will open the door for algae to
participate, regardless of what lamp color you have.
High Color Temp has lower PAR values as the wavelengths are long and
infrequent. Low Color temp has higher PAR values as the wavelengths are
short and more frequent.
Flourescent and Compacts have lower PAR values because the wattage is
derived along a tube. Metal Halide has high PAR values because the wattage
is derived from a tight source point.
Yes, it's a balancing act, and you have to figure it out yourself. No one
can teach this, regardless of how many act like they can.
And more info to arm you...
At similar wattages, Metal Halide has a very short but square intensity
footpint... Flourescent lamps have thin but long intensity footprint.
Flourescent lamps are good for achieving a like lower intensity across a
large area which is good for most submerged plants commonly found in our
hobby.
Metal Halide is good for achieving something that looks like sunlight, can
be filtered by emmergent plants and still reach the submerged plants below,
reflected off of wood to produce shadows, and meet a whole realm of plant
community requirements.
Todd's book of lighting in 8 minutes! Heck yeah! :)
Hope this helps..
Todd
----- Original Message -----
From: "Todd Crail" <farmertodd_at_buckeye-express.com>
To: <nanfa_at_aquaria.net>
Sent: Monday, February 02, 2004 10:22 AM
Subject: Re: NANFA-- 135 gal. Freshwater Tank
> Well maybe we just need to build our own and take some pictures. :)
>
> I _don't_ want to infringe on anyone's intellectual property. I'll
contact
> him first.
>
> What's good about these guys... Is that they move a huge _volume_ of
water,
> with minimal velocity and it's incredibly efficient at using it's energy
and
> not wasting any as heat. In a large tank that's 6' long, this is what
would
> be desired and would be much more stream like.
>
> The light stuff... I'll get to that at lunch ;)
>
> My summary is... "Light: Don't over analyze it!"
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Shane Graber" <SGraber_at_sauder.com>
> To: <nanfa_at_aquaria.net>
> Sent: Monday, February 02, 2004 10:14 AM
> Subject: RE: NANFA-- 135 gal. Freshwater Tank
>
>
> > LG said the impellor shaft was made of stainless steel and that it was
> > "saltwater safe." When a lot of marine hobbyists started buying this
pump
> > they found out that it really wasn't "saltwater safe" and that some
shafts
> > would corrode. It was traced down to using a lower grade stainless
steel
> on
> > the shaft than what is typically used in marine applications. This
little
> > fact basically doomed Jimmy from the onset.
> >
> > Jimmy's not answering any more inqiries about the Reeftec's unless
> > something's changed on his website: http://www.reeftec.com/ It's
> > definitely a great product, but just doesn't hold up long term in a
> > corrosive environment like a marine tank.
> >
> > This mod is *incredibly* easy if you get the LG pump, a 1" nylon spacer,
> > nylon screw, and left hand RC boat prop. The only real thing that would
> > take much time to fabricate would be the hanger for inside the tank.
I'm
> > considering using this on my 125 freshwater tank (when I get going on
> > setting it up)... ;)
> >
> > Shane
-- > /"Unless stated otherwise, comments made on this list do not necessarily > / reflect the beliefs or goals of the North American Native Fishes > / Association" > / This is the discussion list of the North American Native Fishes Association > / nanfa_at_aquaria.net. To subscribe, unsubscribe, or get help, send the word > / subscribe, unsubscribe, or help in the body (not subject) of an email to > / nanfa-request_at_aquaria.net. For a digest version, send the command to > / nanfa-digest-request_at_aquaria.net instead. > / For more information about NANFA, visit our web page, http://www.nanfa.org /----------------------------------------------------------------------------- /"Unless stated otherwise, comments made on this list do not necessarily / reflect the beliefs or goals of the North American Native Fishes / Association" / This is the discussion list of the North American Native Fishes Association / nanfa_at_aquaria.net. To subscribe, unsubscribe, or get help, send the word / subscribe, unsubscribe, or help in the body (not subject) of an email to / nanfa-request_at_aquaria.net. For a digest version, send the command to / nanfa-digest-request_at_aquaria.net instead. / For more information about NANFA, visit our web page, http://www.nanfa.org