RE: NANFA-L-- Homemade chiller

J. C. (hillbillynursery-in-yahoo.com)
Tue, 30 May 2006 22:08:46 -0700 (PDT)

My problem is my native fish need cooler temps. The
house sits on 78F during the summer and 70F in winter
as it is cheaper to heat the whole house than to run
tank heaters in all my 32 tanks for my warm water
friends. So I am going to have to come up with a way
of cooling a tank for natives(which will probly be
another year away) now that yall got me hooked. And to
think I joined this list to only find native killies.

Later, John

--- "Crail, Todd" <tcrail-in-UTNet.UToledo.Edu> wrote:
>
> I've seen a few people who have done the fridge
> thing. After everything was
> said and done, they spent as much money (not to
> mention their time, whatever
> you "bill" your free time at) and just ended up
> buying a room AC instead to
> get the spouse happy again. But... If you're single
> and like to engineer, by
> all means, have a ball :)
>
> Todd
> The Fish Room is Air Temp Madness, Toledo, OH
> It's never too late to have a happy childhood.
> http://www.farmertodd.com
>
> ________________________________
>
> From: owner-nanfa-l-in-nanfa.org on behalf of Jase
> Roberts
> Sent: Mon 5/29/2006 12:59 PM
> To: nanfa-l-in-nanfa.org
> Subject: NANFA-L-- Homemade chiller
>
>
>
> Hey All,
>
> One thing to consider with Todd's fan chiller (swamp
> cooler, essentially) is
> that box fans use a LOT of electricity. My standard
> one from Wal-Mart or
> whatever draws 120W on low, 160W on medium, and 220W
> on high... That adds up
> quickly (especially if you're running two) And, of
> course, remember that all
> of that electricity is ultimately being converted to
> heat (in one form or
> another). As Todd notes, it's only going to work if
> your humidity isn't too
> high, and you're going to need to add quite a bit of
> water to the tank as it
> evaporates.
>
> Here's a thought I've been mulling over for a cheap
> chiller... I haven't
> built this, but I can't see why it wouldn't work. I
> plan to do this whenever
> I decide to actually start breeding my natives.
>
> Use either a little bar fridge OR your regular
> kitchen fridge (depending on
> proximity of your kitchen to your aquaria and the
> sensitivities of your
> significant other). If you can get by with your
> kitchen fridge, you'll save
> all the extra cost of running a second fridge (those
> little ones are usually
> pretty inefficient, since they're marketed to
> college kids and cost of the
> initial purchase is the driving factor -- certainly
> not energy efficiency).
>
> - Drill two holes through the side/back of the
> fridge to accommodate 1/4" ID
> vinyl tubing (or whatever diameter you
> want/need/have on hand). Don't hit the
> coils or any wires (unplug your fridge first,
> please)
> - Get enough vinyl tubing to reach from your
> aquarium to the fridge and back.
> - Cut the vinyl in half and pass it through each of
> the holes in the fridge
> (so you have two free ends inside). Use silicone or
> hot glue to seal.
> - Get/make the appropriate fittings to connect a few
> feet of flexible copper
> tubing to the vinyl inside the fridge, and wind that
> into a coil.
> - Inside the fridge, have the copper tubing sitting
> in a 9x13 baking pan (or
> whatever) full of water (better heat transfer). The
> copper tubing isn't open
> to this pan, just passing through it.
> - Get a cheap in-line pump
>
(http://www.discount-pumps.biz/inline-pond-pumps.htm)
> or submersible pump
> (http://www.discount-pumps.biz/aquarium-pumps.htm)
> and connect that to the
> vinyl as a feed from your aquarium. A consideration
> here is that the pump is
> going to ADD heat to the system, so in-line is
> probably better and as small as
> possible definitely best.
> - The free end (coming out of the fridge) then just
> returns to your aquarium.
> - Control temperature by turning the fridge up or
> down, OR by adjusting flow
> on the pump (if it's variable)
>
> So the whole thing (drawn linearly) looks like:
>
> aquarium -----> vinyl tube ----- inline pump----
> vinyl tube ----->(next line)
>
>
> |--------------------------------------------------|
> ---------FRIDGE--->[____copper tube in water
> pan___]---vinyl tube---(next
> line)
>
> |--------------------------------------------------|
>
> ----------> aquarium -----> cool, happy fish
>
> Any reason this wouldn't work? The bigger the
> surface area of the water pan
> in the fridge (and the longer the copper tube heat
> sink), the colder the water
> you're going to be able to return to your aquarium.
>
> If you really want to take best advantage of it, get
> some rigid Styrofoam
> insulation to line the back and sides of your
> aquarium with (reduce
> condensation and heat loss).
>
> If you try it, let me know. I'm curious.
>
> -Jase
> Montpelier, VT
>
>
>
>
>
> Crail, Todd wrote:
> >>Has anyone tried modifying a personal (tabletop)
> refrigerator as an
> >>inexpensive alternative to a chiller?
> >
> >
> > As for a chiller... Here's one that I put together
> last night with this
> > freakin' hot spell we're under (It's too early for
> this crap! Sheesh!)
> >
> >
>
http://www.farmertodd.com/nanfa/reefle/052906/cheapchiller.jpg
> >
> > One is blowing down, the other is blowing out.
> Lost the temp on the temp
> > gaugae last night (which meant it was in excess of
> 86 F). It's down to 76
> > right now. Also lost about 3 gallons of water
> lol. Gas exchange can get
> you
> > out of a bind in a hurry :) You can do the same
> on smaller systems with
> a
> > little clip on fan. The only time you get into
> trouble is when it's
> dagnasty
> > humid and you can't get a single drop more into
> the air. However, by doing
> > this in combination with AC, you'll make the AC
> run a lot more efficiently
> at
> > cooling the tanks.
>
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=== message truncated ===

John Cox of Cumberland Killifish
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