Re: NANFA-L-- Warm tap water

Scott Davis (unclescott at
Sun, 30 Oct 2005 19:43:20 -0800 (PST)

Adding a certain amount of tap water may not make a
difference in large established aquariums anyway, but
there are those who draw water and let it sit in 32 or
50-gallon holding containers for a few days. That
allows some excess CO2 and free nitrogen (the bubbles
on the side of a new tank) to dissipate and also
allows some free oxygen to be absorbed by the water.
Temperatures should also moderate.

Some people will also use a carbon block filter
installed in their hose line. Running the water slowly
through the carbon block (allowing for some contact
time) can take care of not only most heavy metals, but
also chlorine and ammonia (or chloramines).

I fill a food quality 50-gallon drum and let it sit a
couple of days to a couple of weeks. It is seated on
styrofoam (once a shipping box) which offers some
minimal insulation from the floor. The second day, a
submersible Ebo-jager heater is slid in, set for just
about tank temperature or a degree or so above tank
temperature. It wouldn't hurt to drop an airstone in

Some gadget people have a small submersible sump pump
and a long controlling cord, so they can switch that
pump off and on at a distance, by the outlet hose. A
couple of people in this area (greater Chicago) have
pumps on a wheeled platform which they use to fill
holding containers, empty tanks and pump from the
holding containers to the tanks.

Another guy set up a couple of holding reservoirs on a
raised platform and just used gravity to bring the
water to the aquariums. That's certainly more energy

Then there are those using irrigation hoses and PVC
exit pipes to establish "automatic" water changing
systems. For some innovators, there is no end to what
they seem willing to do for their fish and fishroom.

All the best!

Ten Thumbs (I'll never be a chemist) Scott
Thorncreek drainage, SW of Lake Michigan
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